Sunday 4 December 2016

Launceston, Devonport, Spirit of Tasmania, Tullamarine, Wagga & Home

Preamble 

Roger

Anna & Elias, three languages here for you to sort out, Dad or Uncle George can help with one. Uncle David, Aunty Lorna or I can help you with another.  If you need help with the third I suggest you ask your first cousin once removed by marriage Sandra, married to Great Uncle David and Great Aunt Elaine's youngest son, Kenneth Elman, what " Mijn luchtkussenboot zit vol paling" means; yes she is a Kiwi living in Suffolk, England but she too is bilingual and I am sure agrees that "Een enkele taal is nooit genoeg".  

As Herr Laing probably told George, perhaps whilst having a crafty fag in the bushes when he, Herr Laing, should have been coaching a rugby session (American readers crafty fag is slang for an illicit cigarette) “Eine Sprache ist niemals genug”, just before Frau Laing or as she is known, Ms Sludds, would have made the Music House ring with Beethoven’s setting of it for an all-girl choir.  It is unlikely that the IB syllabus included such useful phrases as “Mein Luftkissenfahrzeug ist voller Aale” or “Die Dame übernimmt die Rechnung” but it would certainly have included a very timely “Frohe Weihnachten und einen guten Rutsch ins neue Jahr’.

I don’t remember David’s French teacher very clearly, was it Mr Hamill?  I certainly remember my own, the late Ben Young, MA and Croix de Guerre (1939-1945).  He got his medal while working as liaison between Monty and Charles de Gaul but deserved it more for teaching me! He would absolutely have insisted ‘Une seule langue n'est jamais suffisante’ but I suspect he would have left it to David’s IB teacher to translate “Mon aéroglisseur est plein d'anguilles”.  Sans douté Lorna remembers from her servitude in Geneva ; "Est-ce que vous pourriez parler plus lentement, s'il vous plaît ?" Whilst I recall from my teenage visits to Provence that the response I invariably received to ‘Voulez-vous danser avec moi?” was “Aller se faire cuire un œuf’.  I wonder if French girls still have the same great enthusiasm for boiled eggs they had in those days.

And now we leave the MUN and MEP and return to our travels in Tasmania.

Launceston

Chiefly by Lorna

We rearranged our itinerary and deleted stops in Scamander and Devonport to give us  five nights in Launceston as our final five days in Tasmania.  Our preferred hostelry, The Quest, was booked out so we had to spend the first two in the country club villas – a nice enough place to sleep but unless you on a golfing or gambling trip, a less than ideal hub.  The last three nights we moved into Launceston central to the Quest, awkward parking for a taller than 6.2 metre vehicle but right in the centre of town.

Launceston is full of historic buildings, museums, walks and parks. 



I have put my order in for a window like this one!






We love looking at Georgian & Victorian architecture be it domestic or industrial and ambled  past most of them.  You can follow our path at Launceston Heritage Walks 
















Launceston has some very nice restaurants and unlike some places in Tasmania,  the cost was equal to the value received.  Stillwater, Black Cow and Novaro’s were really good experiences. 

An equally astounding experience was at AJ’s Indian in downtown Launceston.  This one chap seemed to greet, seat, wait and cook by himself for the twenty or so customers without ever losing his cool or seem hurried.  Our curry was hot, the bread was freshly cooked and we were in and out of there in less than an hour.  Roger verified that there was nobody else in the kitchen doing the cooking (or washing up).

We did a Tamar river valley cruise, which was a pleasant way to while away an afternoon.  They also took us into Cataract Gorge on the boat which was a  different perspective than walking on top of the gorge and looking down.












Roger

We like Launceston a far less touristy destination than Hobart and well worth a visit but it is a bit under promoted so you'll have to work hard to plan your visit.  I'll cover all this in my debrief at a later date.


Dash to Devonport & Spirit of Tasmania

Lorna

We set out from Launceston at the crack of dawn to drive the 100kms to catch the 9am sailing on the  Spirit of Tasmania ferry.  After our outgoing sailing we both dutifully took the “travel calm” pills as soon as we were on board and prepared for the washing machine effect.  It was a  much smoother crossing and we even had lunch on board.

Tullamarine

The brand new Quest, Melbourne Airport is good but not yet in any of the three GPS devices on which we relied, nor are the surrounding streets.  A littel disconcerting.  We had a very nice dinner nearby at Dicaprio, a very large, really good value Italian Restaurant, we are glad it isn't near home, we'd end up enormous.

Wagga Wagga

Lorna

We decided again to split the drive home  to Sydney, with a stop in Wagga Wagga at the Houston as we had on our way down.  We have raved about the Houston and how good it was and compared a lot of our Tasmanian accommodation unfavorably to the standard they set.  This time they just got it wrong and as the room we had previously occupied was unavailable  they put us in a “suite”.  It was beautiful but impractical and when you spend your time moving furniture in a hotel room to make it possible to move around comfortably, and need a step ladder to get into the bath to shower then the interior designer was more worried about the aesthetics than the practicalities. 

Wagga PS

Roger

We had another awesome Italian meal in another large value driven restaurant, Giuseppes Restaurant & Bar, which started in that most Italian of Riverina towns, Griffith.

The next morning the Houston's owner dealt really well with my feedback, gave us a discount on the room price and will get us there again next time we pass through.  Great customer relationship management and turned us back into Houston fans.

Gundagai 

Lorna

Despite saying last time we were there that we would in future skip Gundagai we decided to drive up the main street to see if it had changed and were delighted to say there is a serious effort underway to make it worth another visit.

We were pleased with our visit to Hope's Place for morning coffee and tea.  Roger was delighted to get a pot of proper loose leaf tea.  Across the road, in the old Gundagai Theatre, we found an antique/vintage/bric a brac shop that was wonderful.  Packed full of clothes, furniture and interesting stuff.  We left with a cast iron cockerel door stop.  The vintage hat section alone took me straight back to my childhood and Sunday best.  Next time I need a dress up box, I am heading to Gundagai.
Take a llok at the efforts the Gundagai community are making, well worth a quick stop next time you pass.  Gundagai Visitor's centre.

Lunch at our usual stop at Goulburn workers club – a value proposition.


Home always looks good after a long holiday and thanks to sons and neighbours, it was still there and looking good.

Wednesday 23 November 2016

Coles Bay and the Freycinet National Park

Editorial Comment

For this blog post we are reverting to our usual joint effort.  Lorna provides the facts; Roger adds waffle in italics and photos.

Special Section for Anna, Elias and francophones

Une seule langue n'est jamais suffisante.
Ça fait longtemps qu'on s'est pas vu !
Mon aéroglisseur est plein d'anguilles.

Hobart to Coles Bay & Freycinet


 Leaving Hobart, we headed for Coles Bay and the Freycinet National Park.  Our first stop was the Three Thumbs Lookout, with views over Maria Island, Mercury Passage and the East Coast.  Access to the lookout is along an unmade, steep track and thus, for the first time in a while, we had a lookout and view to ourselves.  The views are stunning and the sea colour would be very inviting if one didn’t know the water temperatures.







We then stopped for lunch and the much promoted Fish Van by the ferry in Triabunna. The fish and trip were undeniably excellent.



I (Roger) have been struggling to understand the state economy and have reached the conclusion that local businesses understand their value proposition and how not to leave any money on the table.  Having spent much of my working life working on the pricing challenge both as a small business owner and as a marketing manager in multi nationals.   I ‘dips me lid’.  Time and time again we have watched an almost endless stream of tourists, especially from China queuing up to order and to pay everywhere we went. The fish van is an excellent example, located next to a fishing harbour serving local fish, I gather Tasmania still grows and exports spuds, that there is high unemployment and wage pressure in Tasmania and the Fish Van has, as Joyce Mayne used to say, ‘no fancy overheads’ yet the local fish and chips, like so many things in Tasmania was good food at premium prices. Not a tourist rip off, there were many locals eating there, just prices that show the business operator is getting top dollar for his product.  A lesson for us all.  

Next came a picturesque drive along the coast toward Coles Bay and Freycinet Lodge.




Coles Bay and Freycinet Lodge  



Our accommodation was beautifully located on the edge of the National Park; the view was stunning but the resort needs a maintenance program.  At the end of our trip I will share my TripAdvisor comments with you all.



Dinner in the Lodge a disappointment, cold and fussy but that sunset, oh boy!

From order to serving main course took 90 minutes, when my main course arrived it was tepid! 




Next day up bright and early and into the National Park for the climb to Wineglass Lookout and Coles Bay Lookout.




We had every intention of doing the 11 km circuit walk to Hazards Beach but after the 500 steps up and down to the lookout we reckoned we had seen enough of it.  The lookout was crowded and the bus tour which seemed to take forever to take photos of each of them then the various combinations of them wore down our tolerance level for the spot.







Lunch was at the Freycinet Marine Farm for the much-hyped fresh fish.  Whilst we ate our beautiful fresh fish three busloads of Chinese tourists drew up to the farm (separately) and each time we watched the melee as they tried to order whilst ignoring any attempt to get them to queue.

The comments about good food at premium prices apply even more to the Freycinet Marine Farm than the fish van, excellent food, small portions and the simplest menu possible all at Sydney CBD restaurant prices.

Next stop Freycinet Air where Pascal our friendly and youthful pilot took us over the Freycinet national Park and then down to Maria Island.









Next Stop Launceston


Next day we headed ever northwards and for a brief stop at the Apsley Waterhole.































We stopped for another great fish meal, this time at Captains Catch St Helens



Thence onto the Bay of Fires.  The sand is very white, the water very blue and the rocks very orange.

We debated two competing theories of why the Bay of Fires bears that name, I lean to the received wisdom that when  Captain Tobias Furneaux, was exploring the area in 1773 he noticed numerous fires along the coast. Lorna likes the idea it's because of the orange growth on some of the rocks.I decided to shut up feeling smug :-) and let her argue with the TAS Parks guys, Bay of Fires Conservation Area.















It was a beautiful spot and we wished we had time to spend a few hours there but we needed to get on to Launceston.

We headed along the A3 through St Helens and Scottsdale, many hairpin bends later we arrived in Launceston.

Lorna tells me the middle of Tasmania reminds her of Ireland.  I didn’t see much I was busy throwing the FJ around hairpins!


Boy, Scottsdale Tasmania sure isn’t Kansas, Toto!

Editorial Footnote

I will do two more blog posts when we get home, one to wrap up the balance of the trip, Launceston, Devonport, The Spirit of Tasmania crossing (heave ho, me hearties) Melbourne, Wagga and home.  The other a summary post for anyone thinking of following in our footsteps.  I’ll also point to the various TripAdvsor reviews I have written.