Coles Bay and the Freycinet National Park

Editorial Comment

For this blog post we are reverting to our usual joint effort.  Lorna provides the facts; Roger adds waffle in italics and photos.

Special Section for Anna, Elias and francophones

Une seule langue n'est jamais suffisante.
Ça fait longtemps qu'on s'est pas vu !
Mon aéroglisseur est plein d'anguilles.

Hobart to Coles Bay & Freycinet

 Leaving Hobart, we headed for Coles Bay and the Freycinet National Park.  Our first stop was the Three Thumbs Lookout, with views over Maria Island, Mercury Passage and the East Coast.  Access to the lookout is along an unmade, steep track and thus, for the first time in a while, we had a lookout and view to ourselves.  The views are stunning and the sea colour would be very inviting if one didn’t know the water temperatures.

We then stopped for lunch and the much promoted Fish Van by the ferry in Triabunna. The fish and trip were undeniably excellent.

I (Roger) have been struggling to understand the state economy and have reached the conclusion that local businesses understand their value proposition and how not to leave any money on the table.  Having spent much of my working life working on the pricing challenge both as a small business owner and as a marketing manager in multi nationals.   I ‘dips me lid’.  Time and time again we have watched an almost endless stream of tourists, especially from China queuing up to order and to pay everywhere we went. The fish van is an excellent example, located next to a fishing harbour serving local fish, I gather Tasmania still grows and exports spuds, that there is high unemployment and wage pressure in Tasmania and the Fish Van has, as Joyce Mayne used to say, ‘no fancy overheads’ yet the local fish and chips, like so many things in Tasmania was good food at premium prices. Not a tourist rip off, there were many locals eating there, just prices that show the business operator is getting top dollar for his product.  A lesson for us all.  

Next came a picturesque drive along the coast toward Coles Bay and Freycinet Lodge.

Coles Bay and Freycinet Lodge  

Our accommodation was beautifully located on the edge of the National Park; the view was stunning but the resort needs a maintenance program.  At the end of our trip I will share my TripAdvisor comments with you all.

Dinner in the Lodge a disappointment, cold and fussy but that sunset, oh boy!

From order to serving main course took 90 minutes, when my main course arrived it was tepid! 

Next day up bright and early and into the National Park for the climb to Wineglass Lookout and Coles Bay Lookout.

We had every intention of doing the 11 km circuit walk to Hazards Beach but after the 500 steps up and down to the lookout we reckoned we had seen enough of it.  The lookout was crowded and the bus tour which seemed to take forever to take photos of each of them then the various combinations of them wore down our tolerance level for the spot.

Lunch was at the Freycinet Marine Farm for the much-hyped fresh fish.  Whilst we ate our beautiful fresh fish three busloads of Chinese tourists drew up to the farm (separately) and each time we watched the melee as they tried to order whilst ignoring any attempt to get them to queue.

The comments about good food at premium prices apply even more to the Freycinet Marine Farm than the fish van, excellent food, small portions and the simplest menu possible all at Sydney CBD restaurant prices.

Next stop Freycinet Air where Pascal our friendly and youthful pilot took us over the Freycinet national Park and then down to Maria Island.

Next Stop Launceston

Next day we headed ever northwards and for a brief stop at the Apsley Waterhole.

We stopped for another great fish meal, this time at Captains Catch St Helens

Thence onto the Bay of Fires.  The sand is very white, the water very blue and the rocks very orange.

We debated two competing theories of why the Bay of Fires bears that name, I lean to the received wisdom that when  Captain Tobias Furneaux, was exploring the area in 1773 he noticed numerous fires along the coast. Lorna likes the idea it's because of the orange growth on some of the rocks.I decided to shut up feeling smug :-) and let her argue with the TAS Parks guys, Bay of Fires Conservation Area.

It was a beautiful spot and we wished we had time to spend a few hours there but we needed to get on to Launceston.

We headed along the A3 through St Helens and Scottsdale, many hairpin bends later we arrived in Launceston.

Lorna tells me the middle of Tasmania reminds her of Ireland.  I didn’t see much I was busy throwing the FJ around hairpins!

Boy, Scottsdale Tasmania sure isn’t Kansas, Toto!

Editorial Footnote

I will do two more blog posts when we get home, one to wrap up the balance of the trip, Launceston, Devonport, The Spirit of Tasmania crossing (heave ho, me hearties) Melbourne, Wagga and home.  The other a summary post for anyone thinking of following in our footsteps.  I’ll also point to the various TripAdvsor reviews I have written.