Coles Bay and the Freycinet National Park

Editorial Comment

For this blog post we are reverting to our usual joint effort.  Lorna provides the facts; Roger adds waffle in italics and photos.

Special Section for Anna, Elias and francophones

Une seule langue n'est jamais suffisante.
Ça fait longtemps qu'on s'est pas vu !
Mon aéroglisseur est plein d'anguilles.

Hobart to Coles Bay & Freycinet

 Leaving Hobart, we headed for Coles Bay and the Freycinet National Park.  Our first stop was the Three Thumbs Lookout, with views over Maria Island, Mercury Passage and the East Coast.  Access to the lookout is along an unmade, steep track and thus, for the first time in a while, we had a lookout and view to ourselves.  The views are stunning and the sea colour would be very inviting if one didn’t know the water temperatures.

We then stopped for lunch and the much promoted Fish Van by the ferry in Triabunna. The fish and trip were undeniably excellent.

I (Roger) have been struggling to understand the state economy and have reached the conclusion that local businesses understand their value proposition and how not to leave any money on the table.  Having spent much of my working life working on the pricing challenge both as a small business owner and as a marketing manager in multi nationals.   I ‘dips me lid’.  Time and time again we have watched an almost endless stream of tourists, especially from China queuing up to order and to pay everywhere we went. The fish van is an excellent example, located next to a fishing harbour serving local fish, I gather Tasmania still grows and exports spuds, that there is high unemployment and wage pressure in Tasmania and the Fish Van has, as Joyce Mayne used to say, ‘no fancy overheads’ yet the local fish and chips, like so many things in Tasmania was good food at premium prices. Not a tourist rip off, there were many locals eating there, just prices that show the business operator is getting top dollar for his product.  A lesson for us all.  

Next came a picturesque drive along the coast toward Coles Bay and Freycinet Lodge.

Coles Bay and Freycinet Lodge  

Our accommodation was beautifully located on the edge of the National Park; the view was stunning but the resort needs a maintenance program.  At the end of our trip I will share my TripAdvisor comments with you all.

Dinner in the Lodge a disappointment, cold and fussy but that sunset, oh boy!

From order to serving main course took 90 minutes, when my main course arrived it was tepid! 

Next day up bright and early and into the National Park for the climb to Wineglass Lookout and Coles Bay Lookout.

We had every intention of doing the 11 km circuit walk to Hazards Beach but after the 500 steps up and down to the lookout we reckoned we had seen enough of it.  The lookout was crowded and the bus tour which seemed to take forever to take photos of each of them then the various combinations of them wore down our tolerance level for the spot.

Lunch was at the Freycinet Marine Farm for the much-hyped fresh fish.  Whilst we ate our beautiful fresh fish three busloads of Chinese tourists drew up to the farm (separately) and each time we watched the melee as they tried to order whilst ignoring any attempt to get them to queue.

The comments about good food at premium prices apply even more to the Freycinet Marine Farm than the fish van, excellent food, small portions and the simplest menu possible all at Sydney CBD restaurant prices.

Next stop Freycinet Air where Pascal our friendly and youthful pilot took us over the Freycinet national Park and then down to Maria Island.

Next Stop Launceston

Next day we headed ever northwards and for a brief stop at the Apsley Waterhole.

We stopped for another great fish meal, this time at Captains Catch St Helens

Thence onto the Bay of Fires.  The sand is very white, the water very blue and the rocks very orange.

We debated two competing theories of why the Bay of Fires bears that name, I lean to the received wisdom that when  Captain Tobias Furneaux, was exploring the area in 1773 he noticed numerous fires along the coast. Lorna likes the idea it's because of the orange growth on some of the rocks.I decided to shut up feeling smug :-) and let her argue with the TAS Parks guys, Bay of Fires Conservation Area.

It was a beautiful spot and we wished we had time to spend a few hours there but we needed to get on to Launceston.

We headed along the A3 through St Helens and Scottsdale, many hairpin bends later we arrived in Launceston.

Lorna tells me the middle of Tasmania reminds her of Ireland.  I didn’t see much I was busy throwing the FJ around hairpins!

Boy, Scottsdale Tasmania sure isn’t Kansas, Toto!

Editorial Footnote

I will do two more blog posts when we get home, one to wrap up the balance of the trip, Launceston, Devonport, The Spirit of Tasmania crossing (heave ho, me hearties) Melbourne, Wagga and home.  The other a summary post for anyone thinking of following in our footsteps.  I’ll also point to the various TripAdvsor reviews I have written.

Based in Hobart for a week revised

I am turning the blog over to Lorna for almost all of this page, I am just editing and adding a few photos.

Over to Lorna.  

I have been challenged that "Ní leor teanga amháin,"

Céad míle fáilte, an bhfuil Gaeilge agaibh?  It took research to translate Monty Python from the original Hungarian into "Tá m'árthach foluaineach lán d'eascanna".  

Roger planned ahead for our first dinner in Hobart.  He researched using TripAdvisor, found somewhere with good reviews and booked dinner at the nearest local eatery for our first night in Hobart at 'The Drunken Admiral'.  The best thing that can be said about his choice is that it was downstairs and it had a good name.  Turns out the only way any Admiral would eat there is if he was drunk.  Roger says, "When I logged to post our review on TripAdvisor I found the reviews that had been posted recently were far less positive.  Lesson check again nearer the time to your booking, hostelries sometime quickly lose their way."

Saturday dawned, cold but at least no early rain so I took the opportunity to visit the Salamanca Markets.  Wandering around the stalls selling craftwork is not  Roger's thing, he stuck with me through the food section of the market and then returned to the apartment and his book after our early walk.  It was a great arrangement, markets like this are  right up my street, I perused at leisure, dithered about purchases, dismissed anything that was not Tasmanian and generally had a ball.  

We dined well this night at Peacock and Jones – a much better choice.

Sunday – it rained and we read our books.  Rained was not sufficient to describe it – I went to the farm gate markets and got thoroughly soaked before I saw sense.

Monday was Mona or the Museum of Old and New Art in Berriedale.  We could have spent all day here but didn’t.    By lunchtime we were on overload and had sore feet.  If you have been here you know what I mean, if you haven’t then nothing I put here will describe it adequately. 

Tuesday and it must be Bruny Island, the forecast for the next few days was dry so we drove to Kettering and took the ferry over to the Island.  My research said that you could do some mad speed boating trip to look at the coastline or tours that covered all the various eateries.  We chose the latter but did it under our own steam.  After the ferry crossing we went off the main drag to Dennes Point and were rewarded with some spectacular views and the bonus of being out of the main tourist route.  Bruny Island is helpfully set up as a travelling lunch destination.  First place you encounter is the Oyster farm (starter), next we came to the cheese company (cheese platter with the trimmings) and then you have to make the decision to turn Right (berry farm) or left (chocolate factory) for dessert.  On the way back to the ferry we stopped at Truganini Lookout, walking up about 250 steps (yes I counted) in gale force winds for the spectacular views of the Neck and both islands worked off some of those epicurean calories. 

Wednesday, an early start and headed for Port Arthur.  This is one of those places with something for everyone, the start of the day in the visitors centre where you follow your “criminal or guards fate” to the old penitentiary and historic buildings and ruins that look like them came out of a film set.  

[A note from Roger.  After consulting with my senior sister, I am able to confirm this was not my first visit to Port Arthur, I was last there with my family when I was three, not 5 as I previously posted.]

On the way back to Hobart we stopped at Eagle Hawk Neck and had a look at Pirate Bay Lookout.  We are becoming blasé about views.  A stopover at Dunalley Fish market on the way home had Roger reliving his youth, we bought a piece of fresh but not wild salmon that according to the owner had been swimming that morning. We were a bit surprised when we heard at Strahan that the farmed salmon are fed grey pellets and have to be dosed to get to be the right colour.  It is obviously true; our dinner was from a tiny fish farm that hasn't  quite got the amount of carrot based dye  right but it turns out really fresh grey salmon is absolutely delicious despite its unnatural appearance.

Thursday, Melaleuca or bust.  The early start and the promise of flying in a small plane meant we went light on breakfast.  A good decision as it turns out.  The crowd of 13 on the tour filled the two small aircraft.  On the way out we were lucky and got the best seats on the plane  (other than the pilots) up front.  The flight was along the southern coastline following the south coast walking track.  Brilliant sunshine, windy and fabulous all at the same time. 

Melaleuca has a couple of huts, a bird watching facility which is focused on the orange bellied parrot and an airstrip.  We were lucky enough to see some of the wild parrots land and eat at their feeding station, there are only about 36 pairs left in the wild.

On to the boating adventure, up the Melaleuca Inlet to Bathurst Harbour.  It was too rough to venture further and go onto Port Davey.  

Lunch was at Clyde Clayton's cottage – a picturesque sounding place but in reality, a settlers cottage which had been abandoned decades ago and now maintained in its original condition by Parks and Wildlife. There were some good but challenging walks and a long drop toilet (without a door).

On return to Melaleuca we did the Needwonnee Walk.

Then back to the plane for the exciting return journey to Cambridge Airport across the National Park and over Mount Wellington.  

For this journey we had been usurped in our prime seats and delegated to the back of the plane – probably fair in the scheme of things but an uncomfortable trip in the bouncy seats.  It was made more exciting by the wind which bumped us around ceiling to floor. However we got back wiunused sick bags and considered the day well worth the discomfort.

Friday was another day spent doing tourist things in Hobart, walk to Battery Point, enjoying the heritage architecture, a couple of stops around Salamanca Place, to buy a very nice cardigan and then to the WurstHaus where Roger bought bilton, sausison sec and other delicacies.  Then time to supermarket shop for supplies for the next few days back in the wilderness.